Method of producing fabric laminated articles



y 1967 B. l. GALITZKI ETAL 3,320,346

METHOD OF PRODUCiNG FABRIC LAMINATED ARTICLES Original Filed July 17,1961 v v 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 A32 was /34 Bernard 1. 6011' i'zki Roberi C.Burbank INVENTORS y 6, 1967 B. GALITZKI ETAL 3,320,346

METHOD OF PRODUCING FABRIC LAMI NATED ARTICLES Original Filed July 17,1961' 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Bernard 1. Gah'f'zki Roberf C. Burbank v mpfgmoksUnited States Patent Office 3,326,345 Patented May 16, 1967 3,320,346METHQD F PRQDUCING FABRIC LAMHNATED ARTICLES Bernard I. Galitzki andRobert C. Burbank, both of Portland, 0reg.; said Burbank assigncitoJantzen Inc., a corporation of Nevada Original application July 17,1961, Ser. No. 124,610, now Patent No. 3,225,768, dated Dec. 28, 1965.Divided and this application Dec. 23, 1965, Ser. No. 516,029 Claims.(Cl. 264-229) This is a division of application Ser. No. 124,610, filedJuly 17, 1961, now Patent No. 3,225,768.

This invention relates to laminated fabrics, articles made therefrom,and a process of manufacturing such fabrics. More particularly, theinvention relates to laminated fabric articles, where the article overat least a portion of its area is shaped with a three-dimensionalcurvature, and the article is constructed in such a manner as to resistdeformation of such curvature and to tend to re-establish the curvatureshould the same be deformed. The invention has particular utility inconnection with the construction of the three dimensionally curvedbreast cups in brassieres and similar form-fitting articles of womensclothing.

Considering for the moment brassieres and related breast-supporting andcovering structures such as are found in bathing suits, sports clothingand the like (it not being intended in its broadest aspects to belimited to such structures, however), there has been a long-felt needfor articles of this description that will render proper support or giveproper contour, and that are devoid of stays, seams, braces, etc. Thelatter produce discomfort, and frequently complicate the constructionand increase the expense of an article. In addition, they have theeffect of spoiling the smooth contour that is the ultimate resultdesired. Another factor to be considered in the construction of sucharticles is that should a breast cup be crushed inadvertently, the samepreferably should have sufiicient resiliency to recover its originalshape. Frequently, as in the case of a bathing suit, the person wearingthe suit has no privacy, and it is diflicult to adjust a brassiere toproper contour without being the subject of some embarrassment.

A general object of the invention is to provide a novel form-fittingarticle, such as a brassiere or other breastcovering article, thatfeatures a laminated plastic and cloth construction free of seams andstays and having a smooth contour throughout, with the article beingentirely satisfactory in rendering proper support and contour.

Another object is to provide such a supporting article, where thearticle is made of a cloth and plastic laminate, constructed so that itis sufficiently stiff to provide proper contour control, sufficientlyflexible to be comfortable, and sufiiciently resilient to regain itsoriginal shape should it be deformed.

An object related to the above is to provide a brassiere or similararticle comprised of a cloth and plastic laminate, where the plastic inthe laminate is flexible and has a degree of resiliency, and the clothselected is a stretchable fabric, preferably one with a longitudinal aswell as a transverse stretch, such cloth in the brassiere beingstretched and under stress, and operable to produce compressive forcesin the plastic layer that is bonded thereto. In the completed brassiere,the stretched fabric resists flattening of the cups therein, andpromotes springing of the cups back to their original shape should theybe deformed.

Yet another feature and object of the invention is to provide a garmentthat includes an inner, breast-covering portion with breast cups to beworn over the breasts, where the breast-covering portion is a cloth andplastic laminate, and is held dependently in the garment by a connectionwith the cloth of the laminate only. If such cloth is stretchable andresilient, a floating type of support within the garment results.

A further object is to provide a novel method of manufacturing alaminated cloth and plastic piece, where a stretchable and resilientcloth is employed in the production of the laminate, and this isstretched and under stress when bonded to the plastic of the laminate,so that on cooling of the plastic after it is formed with propercontour, the cloth is stressed and exerts a compressive force on theplastic layer of the laminate.

In one embodiment of the invention, a laminate comprising an inner clothlayer and an outer plastic layer is contemplated. The cloth on theinside is comfortable against the skin. Such a laminate may be employed,for instance, in making the inner, breast-coveringv portion of a bathingsuit, where the bathing suit proper conceals the breast-coveringportion. In another embodiment of the invention, a laminate comprisingan inner cloth layer, an intermediate plastic layer, and an outer clothlayer is contemplated. This type of laminate is ideally suited formaking such articles as brassieres, Where it is preferable not to haveexposed plastic.

Other features and objects of the invention will become more fullyapparent, as the same is described in conjunc tion with the accompanyingdrawings, wherein:

FIG. 1 illustrates an upper portion of a w-omans bathing suit, withportions removed, such having an outer, covering layer forming thebathing suit proper, and adapted to be worn over the breasts and withinthe covering layer a breast-supporting or covering portion constructedas contemplated according to one embodiment of the invention, with suchbreast-covering portion being an integral part of the suit;

FiG. 2 illustrates a brassiere constructed according to anotherembodiment of the invention;

FIG. 3 is a view, on a somewhat enlarged scale, illustrating a portionof a plastic sheet employed in making a cloth and plastic laminate; 7

FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of a plastic and cloth laminate, on aneven larger scale, illustrating how a mechanical type of bond isproduced between the faces of the cloth and plastic in the laminate;

FIG. 5 is a plan view, illustrating somewhat schemati: cally a type ofapparatus that may be employed in manu facturing the laminate, and astep in its manufacture; I

FIG. 6 is a sectional view, taken along the line 66 in PEG. 5, furtherillustrating the apparatus in FIG. 5;

FIG. 7 is an enlargement of portions of FIG. 6;

FIG. 8 shows apparatus that may be used in making a modified form oflaminate; and

FIG. 9 illustrates how masking layers may be used in making certaintypes of laminates, the figure showing a sheet assembly with portions ofthe various layers in the assembly broken away.

Referring now in particular to FIG. 1, here a womans bathing suit,generally indicated at 10, is illustrated. The bathing suit represents atypical type of garment, where a breast-covering or supporting portionor element as contemplated by this invention may be utilized. Bathingsuit 16 comprises an outer, covering layer of cloth or fabric 112, thatprovides covering for the body, such covering layer having at the top ofthe suit straps 1d, 16 that are adapted to pass over the shoulders.

Inside covering layer 12, and indicated generally at 20, is abreast-covering portion, having cups adapted to be placed over thebreasts and provide support for the breasts. In this particularembodiment, breast-covering portion 2! extends upwardly from a bottomedge 22 and along side edges, such as edge 24, that parallel side seamsin the suit, to top edges 26, 28 corresponding to edges in coveringlayer 12. Portion has upper extremities underlying straps 14, 16, and issewn to the covering layer at seams 36. These seams coincide with theupper limits of breast-covering portion 26.

The major part of breast-covering portion 20 comprises a cloth andplastic laminate. The plastic layer of this laminate is indicated at 34and lines 34a, 34b, 34c indicate the outline of this layer. Bonded tothe inner face of the plastic layer, throughout the entire expanse ofthe layer, is a cloth layer indicated at 36. Cloth layer 36 extendslaterally and upwardly beyond the side and top edges of plastic layer34, and its side and top edges are the side edges 24 and top edges 26,28, of the breast-covering portion 20. Thus, there is an outer margin ofcloth extending beyond the sides and top of the plastic layer.

Cloth layer 36 along the bottom of breast-covering portion 20 is turnedoutwardly over the outside of the plastic layer, as shown in FIG. 1, andthis turned-over portion may be sewn in place. Such stitching is notalways necessary. Other than this, there is no stitching usually neededbetween the cloth and plastic layers, the two being held togetherbecause of the bond existing between opposed faces of the layers. Thebreast-covering portion 20 is held in place in the suit by sewing theouter margin of cloth layer 36 to covering layer 12 of the suit alongedges 24, 26, 28, and seams 30.

In the manufacture of breast-covering portion 20, a pliable or flexible,and somewhat resilient plastic material is employed, that can beheat-softened, and that on hardening will have formed therein thedesired threedimensional curvature. A stretchable cloth is selected,preferably one having both longitudinal and transverse stretchingproperties, and one that when stretched is resilient and tends to returnto its original shape.

Such stretchable fabrics currently are used widely in the manufacture ofsuch items as socks, tight fitting slacks, support garments, etc.Exemplary of such fabrics are the Helanca fabrics, manufactured fromcrimped threads that may be stretched out, but when stretched wish toreturn to their original, crimped state. Fabrics that have elastic yarnstherein may also be employed.

In the selection of a plastic material, it is desirable that one withpliability and some resiliency be selected. Preferably a thermoplasticmaterial is used, as this expedites bonding of the cloth to the plasticin the laminate, as will hereinafter be described, without such bondingaffecting appreciably the resilient qualities of the fabric in thelaminate. In this connection, it has been discovered that elastomericpolyethylene polymers are highly satisfactory, as these arecharacterized by less stiffness or rigidity than the usual elastomericvinyl polymers, and have good resistance to crazing, weakening due toflexing, etc. In the usual brassiere or related article, a plastic layerhaving a thickness ranging between about 15 to 60 mils mayadvantageously be employed. The plastic layer preferably is perforate,as can be seen with reference to FIG. 3 where such is illustrated, assuch increases comfort by providing for some circulation of airtherethrough.

In the manufacture of breast-covering portion 20, the apparatusillustrated somewhat schematically in FIGS. 5, 6, and 7 may be employed.In general terms, such apparatus relies upon subatmospheric pressures(or vacuum) for forcing sheet material about a mold to be shaped, and ashiftable frame section movable toward and away from the mold formounting the sheet material.

With reference now to these figures, the apparatus illustrated comprisesa normally stationary, rectangular base frame 40 with a bottom 42.Extending through the bottom is a conduit 44 which is connected to avacuum source (not shown). Across the top of frame 40 is a screen 46,and a mold 48 of proper contour rests upon this screen. A seal 50extends about the top edge of frame 40.

Disposed above base frame 40 is a shiftable frame section 52. Such has arectangular outline coextensive with the outline of frame 40. Frame 52has an open center, and is shiftable from the raised position shown inFIG. 6 to a position where the base of the frame is against seal 50,using rack and pinion mechanism 56. Above the frame section in itsraised position, and indicated by the dashed outline 58, is a heatingunit.

Frame section 52 has mounted along sides 52a, 52b a row of pinsindicated at 57, 59. These are mounted in fixed position, and havepointed ends projecting outwardly. The pins of a row are employed toanchor one edge of a layer of material engaged thereby. Opposite side52a is a spindle 60 suitably journaled on the frame section and turnedby knob 62. As can be seen with reference to FIG. 7, spindle 60 isprovided with a row of pins 64 extending along the length thereof, suchbeing moved in a circular sweep by turning the spindle. At 66 is a pawland ratchet mechanism inhibiting rotation of. the spindle in onedirection. A similar spindle 68, provided with a knob 70 is mountedopposite side 52b, such also having a row of pins (not shown) like rowof pins 64.

In the manufacture of a breast-covering portion 20, a cloth layer mayfirst be mounted on shiftable frame section 52, by anchoring one edge ofa piece of cloth along side 52a using row of pins 57. The edge of thecloth piece adjacent side 52b of the frame may be anchored in a similarmanner using row of pins 59. The stretchable cloth is stretched andplaced under tension, by securing the edges opposite the anchored edgeson the pins of spindles 60, 68, and turning the spindles so as tostretch the cloth. Typically an elongation ranging up to about 10 to 20percent of the original length of the cloth may be produced in the clothbefore the manufacture of the laminate is started.

After suitably positioning the cloth piece, a sheet of plastic may beplaced over the cloth, and anchored along the side edges of frame 52using the various rows of pins described. The spindles may be turned asmall additional amount properly to smooth out and flatten the plasticsheet. With the inclusion of the plastic, a sheet assembly is formedcomprising the bottom layer of cloth and the top layer of plastic, andthis assembly is held on the shiftable frame section with the opposedfaces of the two layers closely adjacent.

After properly preparing the sheet assembly, the top layer of plastic isheated by energizing heating unit 58. The plastic is softened by heat,not to such an extent as to make it fluid or tacky, but sufliciently soto enable it to be pressed into the interstices of the cloth layer uponpressing the plastic against the cloth. The precise temperature andheating time used, of course, will vary, depending upon the particulartype and thickness of plastic employed. During heating, the plasticshields the cloth layer below it, to keep it from being scorched orotherwise harmed by heat.

Upon the plastic being heat softened, an imperforate flexible coveringis placed over the top of the softened plastic, such covering extendingover the sides of the frame 52 and being for the purpose of closing offthe perforations in the plastic layer so that air is prevented fromleaking through the sheet assembly. The covering is made of a materialthat is inert, that is, a material that will not bond to the plasticbelow it under the heat and pressures used in the process. The shiftableframe 52 is then lowered onto frame 40, and a vacuum started in conduit44. When frame section reaches seal 50, the cloth and plastic layerscarried by the frame section are firmly pressed against mold 48 byatmospheric pressure. Simultaneously, a bonding together of the clothand plastic layers, and a shaping of the layers (accompanied with afurther stretching of the cloth) occurs. When the plastic has hardened,the laminate just formed may be moved from the shiftable frame section,with relaxation of tension in marginal portions of the cloth layer. Thebond formed between the two layers is a mechanical type of bond, ascompared to an adhesive bond, and results from the plastic wedgingwithin and filling up the interstices of the cloth layer, as indicatedin FIG. 4.

After preparing the laminate, that portion of the plastic that is to beremoved in order to shape the outline of the plastic is loosened fromthe cloth by stripping the plastic from the cloth. Loose plastic may bethen trimmed off, with the remaining plastic that is bonded to the clothhaving the peripheral outline of the plastic layer in FIG. 1. Theremaining margin of cloth extending outwardly from the plastic may thenbe employed to sew the piece into the bathing suit, as previouslydescribed with reference to suit shown in FIG. 1.

Referring now to FIG. 2, a womans brassiere 100 is illustrated, suchbeing constructed according to another embodiment of the invention.While. the two-layer laminate described for breast-covering portion maybe employed in the manufacture of a brassiere, in some instances it isdesirable to have anouter covering of cloth or fabric in order not tohave plastic exposed, and thus a three-layer laminate is illustrated inFIG. 2.

In FIG. 2, brassiere includes cup portions 102, and straps 104 adaptedto pass over the shoulders to hold the brassiere in place. A frontsection or piece 106 of the brassiere is laminated, and such section(that includes cup portions 102) is indicated at 106, such section beingbounded by edges 106a, 106b, and 1060. The laminated section comprisesan inner cloth layer 108, an intermediate plastic layer 110, and anouter cloth layer 111.

As in the case of the first embodiment discussed, it is contemplatedthat the plastic layer be a pliable, somewhat resilient plastic,preferably with perforations therein to permit circulation. The clothlayers are stretchable and resilient, and are bonded to the adjacentfaces of the plastic layer.

In the manufacture of the laminated section of the brassiere in FIG. 2,apparatus similar to that already discussed may be employed; however, anadditional frame such as that indicated in FIG. 8 at is desirable.Referring to FIG. 8, it will be seen that a shiftable frame 52 isprovided, and such is over a base frame 40 provided with a conduit 44for producing subatmospheric pressures above the base frame. At 46 is ascreen and at 48 is a mold. Frame section 120 rests on frame 52, and isremovable from the top of the frame 52.

Frame 120 is similar to frame section 52 save that it is inverted. It isprovided with spindles 122 and 124 for holding onto and pulling adjacentedges of a sheet of cloth, and like frame 52, along the sides of theframe opposite spindles 122, 124 are rows of pins (not illustrated) foranchoring edges of a piece of cloth.

In making the laminated section of brassiere 100, a sheet subassembly isfirst prepared on the top of shiftable frame 52 by stretching a clothlayer over the frame using the spindles and rows of pins as described inconnection with the first embodiment of the invention. Then there ispositioned, over the cloth layer, a plastic layer. All this is done withshiftable frame 120 removed from the top of frame 52. While frame 120 isremoved from frame 52, a layer of stretched cloth is prepared over theunderside of frame 120.

After the sheet subassembly has been prepared, and a cloth sheetstretched over the underside of frame 120, heat is applied to theplastic forming the top of the sheet subassembly, with frame 120 stillremoved from the machine. This is done by energizing unit 58, and theplastic is heated by the energized unit directly above it. If theplastic were heated with the cloth layer on frame 120 between unit 58and the plastic, the cloth layer in some instances could be scorched orotherwise harmed. Upon suitably plasticizing the plastic, frame 120 isinserted on top of shiftable frame 52, an inert imperforate coveringplaced over it (to prevent leakage of air through the plastic and clothlayers), and the two frames then moved together down on base frame 42until contact is made with seal 50. On the production of subatmosphericpressures below the layers, they are pressed by the pressure of theatmosphere down on the mold as before. On cooling of the plastic layer,a laminate of three layers results, with a mechanical bond between thefaces of the plastic layer and the adjacent faces of the cloth layers.The completed brassiere may then be made after stripping any excessplastic cloth from the cloth layers and trimming the plastic to propercontour.

In some instances stripping of the plastic layer from the cloth layer orlayers may be diflicult or impractical. In this case, bonding betweencloth and plastic layers may be prevented, in areas where such bondingis not desired, by inserting a masking layer between the cloth andplastic layers, with such masking layer having an edge that matches theprofile desired for the bonded plastic in the finished laminatedarticle. Where a three-layered laminate is prepared, masking layers areincluded on both sides of the plastic covering matching areas.

Thus, in FIG. 9, indicates a layer of cloth on the underside of a layerof plastic 132, and 134 indicates a layer of cloth superimposed over theplastic. Between the bottom cloth layer 130 and the underside of theplastic layer there is provided a masking layer 136 with an edge 136amatching the profile desired for the bonded plastic in the finishedlaminated article. Over the top face of the plastic layer and under theupper layer of cloth there is provided another masking layer 138 with anedge 138a shaped as edge 136a. When such an assembly is pressed downupon a mold as previously described, no bonding takes place over thoseareas covered by the masking layers.

It will be noted that the laminated fabric and garments contemplated bythe invention are characterized by a number of unique features. Abrassiere may be constructed having a smooth contour that is devoid ofseams, stays, and braces where the cups are located. The cups tend tomaintain their shape, yet are pliable and flexible. Should the cups in abrassiere be crushed, there is a tendency for the cups to regain theiroriginal shape without special adjustment. The fabric in the laminate iswithout wrinkles. By providing a margin of stretchable cloth extendingbeyond the boundaries of the laminated portion in a breast-coveringelement, a type of floating support may be provided the element bysewing the element in place using the protruding margin of cloth.

We claim:

1. In the manufacture of a laminated cloth and plastic piece withthree-dimensional curvature in the piece; the method comprisingemploying a stretchable and resilient cloth as the cloth in the pieceand a heat-softenable flexible and resilient plastic as the plastic;preparing a sheet assembly comprising a sheet of the cloth and a sheetof the plastic with the sheet of plastic disposed over one face of thecloth sheet and with the cloth sheet stretched and under tension;forming the sheet assembly with proper three-dimensional curvature byheat softening the plastic sheet to a degree less than one that makessaid sheet fluid or tacky, and then shaping the assembly andmechanically bonding together the fabric and plastic sheets in the assembly; then cooling the sheet assembly; and on cooling of the assemblyrelaxing the tension in the cloth sheet por tion of the assembly.

2. In the manufacture of a laminated cloth and plastic piece withthree-dimensional curvature in the piece; the method comprisingpreparing a sheet assembly comprising a sheet of flexible and resilientcloth with the cloth stretched and under tension, and over one face ofthe cloth a sheet of thermoplastic plastic that is flexible andresilient; heating the plastic sheet to plasticize it to a degree lessthan one that makes said sheet fluid or tacky and then forming the sheetassembly with proper three-dimensional curvature while simultaneouslymechanically bonding the two sheets in the assembly together by pressingthe sheet assembly against a mold; then cooling the assembly; and oncooling of the sheet assembly relaxing the tension in the cloth sheetportion of the assembly.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein a masking layer is provided betweenthe sheets of the sheet assembly prior to forming the three-dimensionalcurvature.

4. In the manufacture of a laminated cloth and plastic piece withthree-dimensional curvature in the piece; the method comprising firstpreparing a sheet subassembly comprising a sheet of stretchable andresilient cloth with the cloth stretched and under tension, andoverlying one face of the cloth sheet a sheet of thermoplastic plasticthat is flexible and resilient; heating the plastic sheet to plasticizeit to a degree less than one that makes said sheet fluid or tacky;superimposing over the exposed face of the plasticized plastic sheetanother sheet of cloth that is stretchable and resilient with the clothstretched and under tension to form a complete sheet assembly; shapingthe complete sheet assembly with proper three-dimensional curvature bypressing the assembly against a mold with the plastic sheet at the sametime mechanically bonding together with the cloth sheets on either sidethereof; then cooling the sheet assembly and on cooling of the assemblyrelaxing the tension in the various cloth sheets in the assembly. 5. Themethod of claim 4 where masking layers are provided over matching areasbetween the plastic sheet and the cloth sheets on either side thereofprior to shaping the sheet assembly.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS ROBERT F. WHITE,Primary Examiner.

M. R. DOWLING, R. R. KUCIA, Assistant Examiners.

1. IN THE MANUFACTURE OF A LAMINATED CLOTH AND PLASTIC PIECE WITHTHREE-DIMENSIONAL CURVATURE IN THE PIECE; THE METHOD COMPRISINGEMPLOYING A STRETCHABLE AND RESILIENT CLOTH AS THE CLOTH IN THE PIECEAND A HEAT-SOFTENABLE FLEXIBLE AND RESILIENT PLASTIC; PREPARING A SHEETASSEMBLY COMPRISING A SHEET OF THE CLOTH AND A SHEET OF THE PLASTIC WITHTHE SHEET OF PLASTIC DISPOSED OVER ONE FACE OF THE CLOTH SHEET AND WITHTHE CLOTH SHEET SSTRETCHED AND UNDER TENSION; FORMING THE SHEET ASSEMBLYWITH PROPER THREE-DIMENSIONAL CURVATURE BY HEAT SOFTENING THE PLASTICSHEET TO A DEGREE LESS THAN ONE THAT MAKES SAID SHEET FLUID OR TACKY,AND THEN SHAPING THE ASSEMBLY AND MECHANICALLY BONDING TOGETHER THEFABRIC AND PLASTIC SHEETS IN THE ASSEMBLY; THEN COOLING THE SHEETASSEMBLY; AND ON COOLING OF THE ASSEMBLY RELAXING THE TENSION IN THECLOTH SHEET PORTION OF THE ASSEMBLY